INTRODUCTION
PART 1: PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Routes, costs and making a booking
Route options 8 Costs 11 When to go 11 Making a booking 13
Visas 15
Before you leave
Who to go with 18 What to take 19 Vaccinations and health safeguards 22 Travel insurance 24 Background reading 24 Internet resources 30
PART 2: THE SILK ROAD
History
The route 31 Alexander the Great 37 Zhang Qian 40 The Parthian Shot 41 The Royal Purple 43 No more secrets 44 A New Golden Age 45 The Mongols 47 Pax Mongolica 51 The end 51
PART 3: THE MIDDLE EAST
Facts about the region
Geographical background 53 History 54 The people and their religion 65
Practical information for the visitor
The route 69 Documents 71 Climate 71 Accommodation 72
Transport 74 Travel agencies and tourist information 75
Electricity 76 Time 76 Money 76 Communications 77
National holidays 78 Customs and attitudes 78 Food 79 Drink 80
Istanbul 81 Cappadocia (Gφreme) 95 Antakya 100 Aleppo 105 Hama 108 Krak des Chevaliers 111 Palmyra 114 Damascus 117 Malatya and Kahta 124 Erzurum 126 Dogubeyazit 128 Tabriz 130 Ghazvin 132 Tehran 134 Esfahan 142 Shiraz 149 Persepolis 152 Mashad 155
PART 4: CENTRAL ASIA
Facts about the region
Geographical background 158 History 159 (Turkmenistan 167,
Uzbekistan 169, Kyrgyzstan 170) The people 172
Practical information for the visitor
The route 174 Documents and formalities 174 Climate 177 Safety 178 Accommodation 179 Travel agencies and tourist information 180 Transport 182 Electricity 182 Time 182 Money 182 Communications 183 National holidays 184 Food 184 Drink 185
Mary and Merv 186 Ashgabat 190 Konye-Urgench 194 Nukus 197 Khiva 199 Bukhara 205 Samarkand 215 Tashkent 222 The Ferghana Valley 230 Osh 232 Bishkek 234 Issyk Kul 238 Song Kul 240
PART 5: PAKISTAN AND THE KARAKORUM HIGHWAY
Facts about the region
Geographical background 243 History 243 The people 252 The economy 253 Religion 253
Practical information for the visitor
The route 254 Documents 256 Climate 256 Accommodation 257 Travel agencies and tourist information 257 Transport 257
Electricity 258 Time 258 Money 258 Communications 259
National holidays 259 Customs and attitudes 259 Food 260 Drink 262
Sost 263 Passu 263 (Hiking around Passu 264) The Hunza and Nagar valleys 267 (Karimabad 268) Gilgit 271 Rawalpindi and Islamabad 274
PART 6: CHINA
Facts about the country
Geographical background 278 History 278 The people 287 Religion 288
Practical information for the visitor
The route 289 Documents 289 Climate 291 Accommodation 292 Travel agencies and tourist information 293 Transport 293 Electricity 297 Time 297 Money 297 Communications 298 National holidays 298 Customs and attitudes 299 Food 300 Drink 301
Xinjiang Geographical background 302 History 302 Kashgar 205 Kuqa 309 Turfan 312 Southern Taklamakan route 320 Khotan 321 Charklik 323 Dunhuang 324 Jiayuguan 329 Lanzhou 334 Xian 340 Pingyao 349 Datong 351 Beijing 354
APPENDIX
Useful words and phrases (Arabic 375, Russian 376, Chinese 376)
INDEX 379
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